4/27/08 (Posting on 4/28/08 at the Tuckahoe Library in Richmond, VA- finally, internet access!)
Dear friends,
I hope this entry finds you all rested after a nice weekend.
Well, you’ll be pleased to know Ana and I survived our trip to Chicago. On Friday night, we arrived at the beautiful Belden-Stratford Hotel in the Lincoln Park area of Chicago at 11:30PM after a horrendous drive through the rain. We were determined not to eat fast food, and more importantly, desired deep dish pizza, so we ordered pizza to be delivered at 12:30AM. We devoured the thick, saucy pizza quickly while going over our talk haphazardly. In our exhaustion and distraction, I used Ana’s insulin pen by accident without changing her needle. I exclaimed, “Ew! I hope I don’t catch your rejection.” We had a good laugh, a sign of delerium. With full stomachs, we fell asleep in our luxurious room at 1AM. Thank goodness we are on acid blockers! Needless to say, we passed out quickly.
Ana and I woke up early on Saturday, April 26 and packed quickly. We picked up a few extra muffins and bagels from the fancy continental breakfast (for our future meals) and rushed to the CF Education Day at Children’s Memorial Hospital. The wonderful staff including Stacey, Eileen and Joanne, among others, greeted us. I also met my friends Cynthia and Steven, two generous souls who offer their wisdom to the CF community through USACFA. Ana and I met the familiar faces of the sales reps from our CF drug companies. We are all a big family by now!
Around 11am, Ana and I gave a one hour talk which was thankfully very well received. We were extremely touched by the generosity of the Hagobian family, who donated books for every family who attended the event. Mr. Hagobian’s daughter was in the hospital for CF a few years ago and was so moved by the struggles of other chronically ill children that she started to raise money to help these families. Isn’t this an amazing young girl? She exemplifies the blessings that come from illness- the stirring of a desire to have compassion for others. The book funds came from their fundraising that is now called “Holiday Heroes.”
After our talk, family members approached us to have us sign these books. It was very touching to witness a few family members become tearful and overwhelmed when talking to us. Some said we said things they felt but could never articulate. One 18 year old teen broke down and we could tell she was in the fragile state of hating CF and wishing she didn’t have it—that we were in half our lives ago. We tried to reassure her that we were in the same place as she was, and that meltdowns were normal and natural because CF is hard! We met young fragile moms of 2 year olds who carried the fear and worry that my mom did when we were that young. Our hope was that these people can reach a place of self-awareness that we are blessed to arrive at after many trials with CF. It was humbling to know we are all taking turns going through the emotions and trials that a common illness creates for our lives. There really is nothing unique about our story, our book. There are hundreds and thousands of others experiencing similar struggles which we just happened to write down. We truly all are in this together!
After signing books and making people wait for over an hour in line, Ana and I went out to a wonderful meal with Cynthia and Steven. I feel so grateful that our illness has allowed us to associate with such extraordinary people. I need not say anything but listen to these friends and I feel fulfilled.
Ana and I got onto the road by 3:30pm but got caught in a traffic jam, so we didn’t escape Chicago until 4:30pm. Ana had another emergency low blood sugar, and fortunately, I was driving again. Also, we have large amounts of food in the back of the car so she quickly recovered. Diabetes is high maintenance!
Then Ana and I had a sudden panic that we forgot our insulin in the hotel refrigerator, and then turned around on the freeway, only to realize we actually did have the meds in our cooler. There was a lot of bickering: “You said you didn’t know if you picked it up!” “You put it in the cooler!” “I remember getting the ice blocks, or was that yesterday?” Ana and I share half a brain each!
Anyway, we drove from Chicago along the Lake, then on to Gary, Indiana. We enjoyed the green flat farmlands of Indiana and missed stopping to meet our Indianapolis friends… We passed barns next to tall silos and brick homes with long driveways. GMC trucks were parked in front and surrounded by half an acre of lawn. We passed mostly American cars and felt self-conscious in our Honda. We also passed cars with bumper stickers that read, “Abortion stops a beating heart.” We are in the Heartland.
I think it’s natural for those of us who’ve lived in one place for most of our lives to start feeling that our region has the ‘right culture and values’ that fit with us. This is especially true in progressive California, and especially in the Bay Area, with so many socially-consciuous, educated intellectuals. I started this trip with the mantra, “I will not judge, I will not be elitist” because of the different values and lifestyles we would encounter on our road trip. When I see grossly obese people in large SUVs, I bite my tongue. I then realize so many of these towns are so spread apart and the weather is not conducive to outdoor exercise, so no wonder people depend on cars/trucks and inactivity/obesity are inevitable. I continue to try to respect and understand what I see.
We sped ahead through Indiana, watching the red sunset in the rearview mirror. We stopped only for gas and bathroom breaks, and ate the box lunch we got at the CF event for dinner. From Indiana, we crossed into Ohio in the dark and came to Cincinnati. All I know about this city is WKRP! We tried to take a smaller route instead of the out-of-the-way routes on the Interstate, but instead got tangled in the maze of downtown Cincinnati. It was already 10PM, and we roamed the streets looking up at the lights of the impressive tall buildings of downtown and drove through the sketchy parts too.
We finally found the US 52 East and learned it was an Ohio Scenic Byway, which followed the Ohio River. We couldn’t see much in the pitch dark, but noticed the tall smokestacks of factories along the river. The 2-lane road curved and meandered along hills in the dark. Using our GPS we finally found a hotel around 11:30pm. We crossed the Ohio River and entered historic Maysville, Kentucky. This was our 4th state on Saturday! When we walked into the lobby, a fog of smoke hit us and we knew we were in the south! Maysville is a town of 9000 people and is well known as a historic tobacco trade city, a stop on the Underground Railroad, and the home of Rosemary Clooney, who appropriately sang “Sisters” in White Christmas. Despite the smoke, I followed the sound of rowdy dancing and laughter into a lounge in the back of the lobby. There was a sign that said, “Please join our Nascar Kick-off Dance Party.” I have to confess I was tempted! My two goals on this trip are to go to a southern church and to go country dancing. However, the hoards of drunk people and hazy smoke-filled room, not to mention my exhaustion, kept me away. Cigarette smoke used to turn me off, but now I cannot smell a thing. Still, smoke repels me from my CF days. Even on the road, I noticed nearly everyone smoking in public. I thought about how unfair it was for me to judge smokers here when their entire history and economy is based on tobacco. I can imagine the resistance the anti-smoking groups faced here. Well, anyway, Ana and I found our room and crashed immediately.
This morning, Sunday, April 27, 2008, Ana and I roamed the streets of historic Maysville. This is such a cute town with character, history, excellent signage, and culture. We passed a store with Obama t-shirts in the window at 50% off. People were extremely friendly (unlike Oklahoma except Stephanie Click). I was tempted to attend church for the cultural experience but I hesitated because I was wearing exercise clothes. But on one block, around 9:45am, a group of people gathered outside and as we passed they said hello, so we stopped to chat. It turned out that the evangelical minister, John Earnhardt, cousin of Dale Earnhardt, was giving a seminar at 10AM. One man was on oxygen and we sympathized with him, sharing our story about our lung transplants, and how grateful to God we were to be well enough to drive from California. So, after some connecting, we decided to give it a try. I confess some part of my interest was purely voyeuristic. I wanted to see if the churches here in Kentucky and the South are what I expect from the stereotypes on TV and in the media.
Over the next hour, Pastor Earnhardt gave a beautiful sermon about God having a plan for all of us, and I actually agreed with a good part of what he said. I wondered if he censored his talk because at one point he spoke of the “wickedness of humans” (which I don’t agree with) and said, “You girls are gonna go back to California and say I used the word ‘wicked’.” We chatted a bit more with other people there, including the friendly Ben Wright, who introduced himself charmingly by saying, “I’ve been right all my life.” We met an older lady who had two great-granddaughers with cystic fibrosis, proving that perhaps we were meant to go to this church and connect to these wonderful people. Getting lost the night before, wandering on this block at the right time, were all coincidences that made us wonder if this meeting was meant to be.
Overall, I learned that I cannot judge people with the religious stereotypes of this region. I knew it was a test of my tolerance to hear a sermon from an evangelist, when I passed billboards on the Interstate that said “Hell is real” and “It’s your choice: Heaven or Hell.” That threatening religion turns me off, but when hearing someone like John Earnhardt, I think I learned to appreciate those who are faithful because they 1) want to understand the meaning of their lives and 2) want to live the best life they can. I hope that the people at that church also could reflect on their stereotypes of Asian San Franciscan women.
We got on the 52 East road and continued along the beautiful Ohio River Byway for a few more hours. We drove by broken down wooden shacks with faded words like, ‘New Tobacco Company.’ I saw a sign that said, “Global warming is good for boatin’ business.’ In New Boston, Ohio, we stopped at the grocery store to look for postcards and buy fruit and carrots, because we are desperate for fresh produce. We saw some Ohio River Valley wine and added that to our basket. At the register, the clerk said with a southern twang, “I can’t sell you this.” I was ready to pull out my ID, but she said she could’nt sell wine on Sundays. Beer is fine, though, and we wondered who thought of that double standard! Through Portsmouth, Ohio and other towns, we saw an unusual number of hospices and funeral homes. We also saw two billboards stacked; the first one said ‘Cigs for Less: Discounted Cigarettes next right’ and the second one said, ‘Cardiac Care Health Center: Next Right’. We had to laugh at this irony.
At the end of 52 East, we re-entered Ashland, Kentucky to take a photo of the “Welcome to Kentucky” sign that we missed the night before. Then we entered Huntington, West Virginia! Immediately, we saw Obama signs for the upcoming primary on May 15. We saw hybrid and foreign cars again and felt a bit reassured we were in more progressive country. Of course, we blasted John Denver’s “Take Me Home, Country Road” and sang outloud, giggling at ourselves. Near Charleston, we took a long route on the 60 East, or the Midland Trail, that passed miles of historic coal mining towns. We passed historic graveyards- if only each tombstone could talk! We made tuna sandwiches in the car and munched on snacks. We passed piles several stories high of black rock and signs that read, “Coal Keeps the Lights On.” We passed Booker T Washington’s home in Malden and his famous African Zion Church. We read in the brochures that the Kanawha River has salt reserves that lead to Pawnee Indians and eventually whites to settle along the river. These people created the towns long before black goal was discovered. Our car was stopped at a light when a train passed, with nearly 50 cars filled with coal. I felt honored to witness this region’s history and economy based on coal.
The river was nestled between tree-covered hillsides and the scenery was gorgeous. We passed the Dupont factory and other chemical factories in Alloy, West Virginia, where silicon is processed for Silicon Valley chips. I winced as I saw the smoke stacks and thought of the toxins in the water and air that may impose health risks for the locals. We made our way towards the London Locks and Dam, two waterfalls, the Gauley Bridge and eventually came to the New River. We stopped to shop at the Country Corner Store which was a delightful quaint tourist trap. As we reached the famous New River Gorge National River, it started to rain, so we did not have time to appreciate the beautiful staircase down to the bottom of the Gorge. We witnessed the highest bridge in the Western Hemisphere and the 2nd highest bridge in the world.
Eventually, we got out at Hawk’s Nest State Park and stopped for a 15 minute jog (Ana’s walking!). I am dying to exercise but we HAVE to keep moving east! Around 6pm, we stopped at Tamarack, “The Best of West Virginia,” where we shopped for beautiful arts and crafts. We picked up sandwiches for the road. I told Andrew on the phone that I was eating a fried green tomato and bacon sandwich. He said, “Well, it was nice knowing you. I guess I’ll keep the car and house.” Well, it was scrumptuous!
By 8:30PM on Sunday night we finally reached the Interstate 64 and drove through the dark Allegheny Mountains, listening to Blue Trial of Sorrow, my favorite bluegrass album. We finally reached the Virginia border and have driven 4200 miles already from California. It has been raining horrendously again for several hours. For some reason, Ana is always driving during the worst weather. Over the Blue Ridge Parkway, there was extremely dense fog and the visibility was less than 30 feet. Ana was grasping the steering wheel and leaning forward, driving 30 mph. Of course, there was cursing.
Despite the evening rain, the drive through West Virginia was absolutely breathtaking. The trees have light green early leaves and the dogwood trees are in full bloom with pink and white blossums. The redbud trees are also ablaze with purple blossoms and we gasp every time we pass a hillside speckled with brilliant spring colors. I decided that West Virginia is my 3rd favorite state after California, coming next to Alaska and New Mexico. Our entire day lasted longer than expected and we had to cancel our hotel reservation in Norfolk. There was too much to see in 500 miles. So, we drove for 12 hours and it is now midnight and I am finishing this blog in a skanky Ramada Inn in Richmond. Tomorrow we will drive another 250 miles to go to Norfolk.
Ana and I have been driving for 12 hour days for 4 days. I am starting to feel like I do when I’m stuck in a hospital room- major muscle atrophy. We are low-budget and have spent $20 a day on food; yesterday we spent only $11. I feel a bit skinnier so it’s time to eat more. But the piles of snacks in our car must be consumed. It’s also time to be more diligent about my enzymes. I am terrified about being blocked up so I’ve let myself malabsorb a bit. With our eating and sleeping habits on the road, and our endless passion for seeing everything, we realize this traveling style would drive our men absolutely crazy. Ana and I are tired but holding up wonderfully. How lucky we are to feel so healthy! Back home on Saturday, we missed the California Transplant Donor Ceremony. Ana and I were thinking of her donor family and honoring his memory. Because of Ana’s first and second donor, we are able to fulfill this fantastic adventure together.
Thanks for your patience to read these long entries. This is more for our memory than your interest.
I wish you all a beautiful week ahead. Please take care, with love, Isa
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4/25/08
Dear friends,
Thanks for continuing to be a voyeur on our blog and our road trip. It is 7:20PM and we are 200 miles from Chicago, on the Interstate 55, very close to Peoria (hello Dottie et al!). Last night, I had a much-needed long sleep. Ana and I met a nice man in the Days Inn breakfast room who was peddly beauty products so we got a bit delayed. Ana and I finally got on the road around 9:30AM to rush from Emporia, KS to Columbia, MO (about 250 miles). As Japanese women, we felt terribly guilty for visiting our friends at the University of Missouri Press empty handed. So, Ana worked like a machine to create seven “65 Roses Hope Necklaces” for everyone at the Press who worked on our book. She finished the last one just 10 minutes before we pulled into the driveway of UMP.
We were greeted enthusiastically by the wonderful ladies and gentlemen of this small academic press in the heart of Missouri’s university town, Columbia. The walls were adorned with posters of their books, and tables were covered with specialty books on Missouri history and culture. By the receptionist’s desk, we saw our book displayed with two dozen from this past season’s catalogs, including one about Laura Ingalls Wilder. We met sweet Sara, who worked for hours and hours copy-editing our book last year to make it what it is today. We embraced Beth, who also spent hours publicizing our book in such an excellent manner. We briefly greeted Bev and Gary, the wonderful editor-in-chief and acquisitions editor, respectively, who accepted our manuscript way back in October, 2006. We happily put faces to names of people who each had vital roles in the success of our book: Karen, Kim, Debbie and Linda.
Ana and I joined some of the ladies for a delicious lunch at Sophia’s. We chatted about all the opportunities this book has opened up for us, and what a delight the Press has been to work with. We learned alittle about each person, and admired that Linda and Karen had been at the Press for 30 out of its 50 year history! Now, that’s dedication! We also took a quick tour of the University campus and admired how young the ‘kids’ looked. We also toured the Costco-sized warehouse and saw rows and rows of boxes of books, up to 3 stories high. It was humbling to know how dedicated the UMP staff has been for our book, just one of thousands in their history. We left the Press with gratitude that these individuals felt that our little family story was important enough to them to take on the task to publish the book for the world.
Our lunch lasted longer than expected and we finally got on the road by 4pm for a 6 hour drive to Chicago. We continue to appreciate the different culture of this region as we listened to Christian rock on the radio. I saw a billboard earlier that said, “Righteousness makes a nation great but sin is a cancer to all people.” Another one read, “Accept Jesus Christ as your savior or regret it forever.” Although I respect people of deep faith, when religion is such an entrenched part of the culture, I often wonder how affective it is for the spirit when one is bonked over the head with it over and over again. In my personal opinion, these threatening billboards do nothing except make me wonder how many people go to church because of social pressure rather than a genuine, sincere desire to explore one’s faith.
So far, I’ve been keeping track of the grestest markers of America’s corporate domination. In 2300 miles, when I’ve paid attention, I’ve seen about 45 McDonalds along the interstates, 17 Walmarts, and 20 Walmart trucks. We passed other cultural icons of American consumerism: the factory for “Lee” jeans (I doubt they’re still made here) and even Dolly Madison Cakes. We are so excited to see Cracker Barrel and strive to enjoy a meal there during this trip. Ana wants to try Long John Silver’s and Dairy Queen in the Heartland.
The sky is dark with a serious Midwest thunderstorm. We just passed Springfield and were impressed with a massive rainstorm and lightening shocking us into intense focus on the road. The flat prairie lands would suddenly light up with crooked flashes of lightening across the sky. We have never driven in such horrendous rain. Thanks, Tom G., for the warning! We shriek everytime lightening comes close to us, followed by giggling. Now, I know we brought umbrellas but in the piles of scattered junk in the car, we have no idea where they are!
Our bicker meter today is low. But Ana just accused me of not driving enough. As twins, we have to be fair! Our bickering increases when we can’t find stuff we need, which is most of the time.
Okay, I will sign off for now. It is getting dark and we can hardly see the road. Each time a truck passes, we can’t see a thing with a cloud of spray in front of us. In the stuffy confines of our Honda Civic, uncontrollable four letter words ring out. We think of pulling over but are encouraged by the words of our GPS, “Remain on the current road.” During the downpour Ana is hunched over the steering wheel, eyes stinging and hands clenched, armpits moist with tension. I will help Ana see in the dark… four eyes are better than two. Woops, we just hydroplaned. Ana needs a massage tonight!!
Thanks for your concern. I hope you all drive safely.
Love, Isa
By the way, God Bless California.
…. It is now 10:43 pm and the lights of the Sears Tower are visible in the distance as we continue our pursuit toward Chicago. We are so determined, we haven’t even had dinner yet. The rain continues and it is close to 50 degrees outside. We have almost completed the hardest two days of our road trip – 1,400 miles of driving in two days- but we did it; like always, we feel that we can do anything, as long as we have each other.