Ana and Isa’s blog

3/9/08

NIGHT DRIVING IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE

We arrived in the near darkness to Tulelake (AKA middle of nowhere), a town about 15 miles south of Klamath Falls, nestled in the Klamath Basin north of Mount Shasta and about 12 miles from the Oregon-California border. We chose to stay here because it was closest to our next dream destination- Lava Beds National Monument- and also because of the historic significance of this small town, which is home to about 1000 residents today. Tulelake was the sight of the largest Japanese Internment camp during World War II, imprisoning over 29,000 Japanese Americans (mostly American citizens) from approximately 1943-1946. We wanted to pay tribute to the price the Japanese Americans paid during World War II, a sacrifice that some believe has spared Muslim Americans today from the same prejudice and unfair treatment.

We stopped at the only motel in town, a small building built in the 70’s with very modest accommodations. It was not the ideal place to stay but we had no choice. There was no hot water in the sink (the bathroom towels boasted a presence from the 70’s as well), the front door’s only lock was the one on the door knob, and it was right next to the highway. A last resort but also “a never-again.” There were no immenities, not even a box of Kleenex. We then proceeded into town to search for dinner, only to find a deserted Main street with buildings that dated back to the 40’s . After much driving, we found a saloon and entered, only to find they didn’t serve food. The owner recommended a restaurant five miles south and we were delighted to find a family diner serving delicious dinners till 8 pm on a Saturday night.

Driving home, the highway was dark and I was driving, struggling to push my boot cast (from my broken right foot) into the gas pedal. Isa was inhaling her tobramycin antibiotic nebulizer in the car using our portable machine. I drove cautiously, partly because of the darkness and unfamiliar territory, but also because I was engrossed in the music of Brandi Carlile:
Have you ever wandered walking through the woods, and everything feels just like it should, part of a lifetime, part of something good, have you ever been walking through the woods?

Suddenly, red and blue lights were flashing behind me. Damn! A cop! I pulled over to the shoulder, creating a dust cloud that kept us from opening our windows well until the cop was standing outside the passager’s side door with a flashlight beaming at us.
“Were we going too fast?” Isa asked when she finally had courage to open her window. Isa reflected her usual uber cheerful and overly friendly self. The cop proceeded to tell me I was driving 40 mph in a 65 mph zone. Too slow. Now that’s a change for a Californian driver. We explained that it was dark and we were not from here, although I think that was obvious. He asked us how much we had been drinking. Anyone who knows us recognizes that Isa and I tend to giggle when nervous or on-the-spot, and his ludicrous question directed at the two most unlikely alcohol consumers in the world provoked a clammer of giggles that must have made him suspect drinking even more.
“What’s that?” he asked shining the flashlight on Isa’s nebulizer, which frankly, looked suspiciously like a mini bong. We explained that she was inhaling medication for prevention of infection for her lung transplant. He asked more questions about the type of medication, and ended with a compassionate, “I just wanted to make sure you gals were alright.” I prayed he wouldn’t shine his flashlight toward my boot cast above the gas pedal. After reviewing my license, insurance and registration, he kindly let us go, without a ticket, warning us to pay attention to the speed limit signs next time.

We made it through that, laughing at ourselves and the situation- being stopped by a cop in a nearly deserted town?

After a night at the Ellis Motel consumed with paranoia of bedbugs and highway hoodlums, we left early in the morning to enjoy a day at the Upper Klamath Basin Wildlife Refuge and the Lava Beds National Monument. We stood before the marsh lands of Tulelake, listening to dozens of migrating birds singing their spring songs. The sun shined on the snow that sat on the banks of the lake. Driving away, we were stopped by seven mule deer crossing the highway. It was wondrous and amazingly serene.

Our adventures in Lava Beds National Monument were mixed with historic sympathy at the area’s history, and awe at the geology of the area. It was the center of the Modoc War, where Modoc Indians fought with the US Military in the late 1800’s , evading escape for 5 months under the guidance of the famed Captain Jack Modoc leader. We were standing on sacred ground , remembering the battles of a near extinct people who lived in dire straights to preserve their homeland and culture. I am humbled to live on stolen land. The landscape of Lava Beds is sprinkled with ah-ah lava, similar to that of Hawaii, due to the volcanic eruption from Medicine Lake volcano thousands of years ago. This lava terrain became prime territory for the Indians to escape the Army. We walked to the battle site of the only Modoc victory as well as the site of Captain Jack’s stronghold , where he ultimately surrendered (he was executed of course, and the remaining 154 Modocs sent to reservations in Oklahoma). There are over 500 lava tube caves underground, many of which are open to the public for caving, at various levels of difficulty. Realizing that I would be in foot surgery 24 hours from that moment, I ditched the crutches, and went caving. We donned our N95 high filtration masks, and flashlights provided by the visitor center and went underground. Within 40 feet it was pitch black and I stepped carefully on rocky lava floors, moist and surrounded by the most amazing “dripping” rock formations. What a gift to be caving 8 months after my transplant! Caving with a boot cast is not recommended, however.

Realizing that we had a long drive ahead, we left around 3 pm and headed south to the site of the Japanese American Internment Camp. What remained was a barbed wire fence, and an engraved monument, plus a few suspected old barracks in the nearby town that we believed were from the 40’s. There was no visitor center nor a museum, almost as if our nation was trying to forget what had transpired.

Our long drive home was glorious . The sun was bright and the visibility magnificent. We drove south past Mount Shasta, being able to see clear to its snow covered top. We passed lakes , streams, blooming almond trees, more wildlife preserves and birding areas, small farm towns, and distance snow peaked mountains. It was moments like these that reinforced why I am stil living. What a heaven we live in. As one early settler of Crater Lake once said, “What right do we have to witness such glory of God?”

We engrossed ourselves in cheezyness, singing loudly to John Denver’s “Rocky Mountain High” and “Annie’s Song.” Only in the privacy of a car… We arrived home after 10 pm, driving over 400 miles on one tank of gas , thanks to Hybrid technology. Stenzel style, we didn’t stop for dinner and made it through the day with a food budget of $5.87 thanks to coupons and simple living. Our dog Rupie, to say the least, was elated to welcome us home.

What a wonderful trip. So much to see and do in life, it’s overwhelming. It’s wonderful to be back to life.
I wish you the same adventures and the opportunity to visit Crater Laka and Lava Beds National Monument sometime.

Hugs and peace to all. Thanks for your attention.

Ana

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